Having climbed for a good few years I've learnt a good few things about my kit and how to use and bodge it in unusual situations.
Volunteering with
very excitable kids along with those with additional physical needs has meant I've gone back to my kit box to explore what's within and how it can make the sessions more enjoyable and safe for myself and the kids I work with. As time goes on I'll explore techniques I come up with or are recommended to myself.
Here are a few ideas to get things going!
Use the rope!
Recently I developed an all new appreciation of top-rope lines at the climbing centre! Sometimes climbing bottom to top doesn't seem as much as fun as going on an adventure sideways across the wall. The danger here is, that once well off to the side, a simple slip causes a dangerous pendulum swing across the wall, bouncing off all the holds along the way or worse yet hitting the ground. Dangerous to the person climbing and also to the belayer who runs the risk of meeting climber mid swing.
One of the simplest ways to guide kids who won't acknowledge verbal instruction is to use subtle corralling with the rope going from your belay advice to the top anchors moving to the outside of the climber and positioning the rope on their side often acts as a sufficient barrier to have them move back on track with no force applied. Depending very much on the child's reaction, a little force can be applied to further incentivise movement - let be me clear here I don't mean yanking them across the wall!
In situations when the child bolts across and you can't use the rope you are attached to, quickly grabbing the next line over with your free hand, you can use that to guide them back on track, too!
Keep tied in!
One of the easiest ways to ensure you know where your participant is and that they're not about to run away, bashing through belayers on their way, is to overlap your tying in.
Once you've lowered the climber to the ground, if they're receptive, have them them sit on the floor somewhere between the climb you climbed and the next one. Remain tied in and once sat down clove hitch the rope to a carabiner attached to your harness you can then disconnect your belay device; you're still safely connected together, by the rope going to the anchors and down. It's discrete so shouldn't cause distress. Now you are free to set up for the next task, tying the member into the next line.
Having the climber untie their last knot gives them a good task to work on and allows you plenty of time to tie the next rope on, with little interruption! Once the knot is tied you can connect your belay device and have your partner safely on belay whilst you help them finish untying the first knot (if necessary) and untying the other end of that rope which you had tied to yourself.
Make sense? Basically don't untie the climber's first rope until they're tied into the second and don't forget to remain attached to the other end yourself.
Speedy change overs!
If there's one thing I've learnt is that it is very hard to slow down an eager to climb climber! Once the knot is tied many kids will think they are now ready to go regardless of whether or not they are on belay or not. There are several options available to ensure everything is safe and ready to go.
Many children who are not receptive to vocal instruction do very well with iDID's non-verbal
Sign Climb system, training is available from
iDID Adventure and I can't recommend it enough. As an instructor I use it regularly with my groups regardless of any additional needs, it's second nature to me and comes quickly to those I use it with.
Body positioning is also important when tying people in. Placing yourself in between the wall and the climber, ensures they cannot pull on and start climbing immediately after you've finished the knot.
Having the belay device already on the other end of the rope is a possibility, but personally it doesn't come naturally to me as I run through a mental checklist of:
"tie knot - attach belay device - check knot - check belay device - climb"
from my day to day climbing and instructing and I don't like to deviate from this procedure.
Speedy attachment of belay device is key, particularly with extremely excited participants. I personally use a Gri-Gri when belaying myself, I value it's locking feature but am very aware that with lighter climbers, additional care has to be taken as the locking mechanism works less effectively with lighter loads.
Connecting my Gri-Gri I now have a Black Diamond Magnetron carabiner, it's nifty design means that it is very quick to open and attach the Grigri needing only a firm squeeze on each side of the carabiner, it then locks very securely, with no action on my part other than letting go of the gate. Double and Triple Action carabiners offer the same advantage but are a little fiddlier to open.
Stay together!
With some people you have real concerns that they might dash off and risk themselves or disrupt others and cause injury; it may be necessary in some cases to double up supervision.
I've found it especially hard to escort people on staircases of all places! Just when you think you're progressing safely they dash ahead of you when they are in front, or turn tail and leg it back down when you are in front. As I said before, additional supervision so you're covered from the front and the back is best but if you're on your own and genuinely worried you can try short roping people. But, and this is a very big BUT, you have to be aware of several considerations:
- Nobody likes to feel like they're being reined in; making it into a game where you buddy yourselves up and laugh it off is the ideal situation, alternatively attaching to a discrete part of their harness, perhaps a side gear loop or leg loop, means that it doesn't feel restrictive or invasive.
- Secondly there is a very real risk if you are attached that you could be injured if the person attached does bolt, being able to quickly detach in that situation or be happy that you can keep yourself safe and secure has to be considered at all times, especially on stairways.
On my instructing harness I have rope lanyard tied with a figure of eight and a magnetron carabiner attached roughly one metre away at the end. I use this in the rare cases when rescue is required or if someone is seen to be belaying off a gear loop accidentally (a terrifying sight!). Being able to quickly and securely attach yourself is key in these situations. I would very rarely use it to short rope as described above, but equally I have valued it at times; having it provide me assurance that my climber is near and safe, not able to dash into danger.
I must reiterate the importance of not scaring or distressing people by attaching yourself to them and always consider the safety of yourself and your partner in case of a fall, slip or dash from either of you.
When working with teams belaying and climbing themselves, use of ground anchors for belayers can also be good practise; keeping belayers securely on the ground using 120cm slings, daisy chains, rope lanyards or the like, ensures their safety in the case of a falling, heavier climber and also to keep people in a specific place!
Esoteric kit:
I'm also working with more unusual equipment from my kit box to assist in my work with those needing additional physical assistance.
Hauling is aided with reduced friction and the Petzl Rig belay device above excels over my Gri-Gri with it's larger radius and it's secure locking function meaning that both my hands can be safely freed in the case that I need to use the rope to help my climber position them self. This has previously occurred when lowering and due to limited lower leg movement feet have need manoeuvring off large holds before descent commences.
Making use of an ascender and attached pulley system on the rope reduces strain and aids efficiency of hauling systems as well if you know what you're doing.
I am fortunate that I am supported by the Wall Managers where I instruct, they are happy for me to make my own judgements regarding what is fit for purpose. It should be remembered that a lot of these methods and pieces of kit will look very unusual and should only be used when you can demonstrate them safely and explain clearly the reasons for their use. You may well be everything entirely safely but if the staff aren't 100% happy, they would be negligent not to step in, even if it does later prove not to be a problem.
