NHS Live Well Advice - Rock Climbing

It's floating around online amongst all my climbing mates, this article basically says, "Climbing's great. Climbing helps you."

http://www.nhs.uk/Livewell/fitness/Pages/rock-climbing-health-benefits.aspx

Not much new there to anyone who climbs regularly! It's interesting reading, particularly in connection to the iDID work we do, since there's specific reference to aiding Dyspraxia symptoms.

"Anecdotal evidence suggests climbing works well for people with dyspraxia (a developmental co-ordination disorder) because the environment is stable (especially if using a designated climbing wall) and the individual only has to think about how to move themselves in relation to the environment."

Me, on me!

Was recently asked to provide a brief 'Meet the team' entry for iDID, here's what I came up with!

Bit of motivation to get out and play!

This video is the ultimate source of inspiration for me, featuring some of my friends grinning manically away. It has far away lands that I can't wait to explore. It's got snow, ice, sun and sand ...

Basically it's my favourite video ever, can't thank Mountain Hardwear enough for putting it out there.

To make it a bit more accessible I've typed up the subtitles so anyone can enjoy the fantastic narration, appreciate the amazing video.

Bitter-Sweet Compliment

Had what I initially thought was a nearly nice thing said today, volunteering at iDID Bristol, "Pete, you're the only person who does ANYTHING with her, that gets her out her wheelchair."

At first it was really warming, I felt really proud, then I started thinking about it, that's sickening ...

I don't put any effort in to get her up on the wall enjoying herself yet when I naively asked, "What about when she's at school? Surely there they get her doing things?" I was told that nope. She's left wheelchair bound there, not least because they're not able to lift her up ...

There has to be more support for kids who don't have it as easy as everyone else.

Repeat Offenders!

Saw an old friend and heard some great news this weekend.

Joining our kids' Boulderclub sessions was the sibling of one of my profoundly deaf climbers from the BIC Fest day. Great to see her back on the wall and obviously loving it again!

Her brother however wasn't so confident about coming back to join the Boulderclub, but thanks to the introductions we made on the event, he is looking to join the iDID Bristol group so I will see him soon for a climb. Need to give him the confidence to join our Saturday morning sessions, I have no doubts he'd have a great time with everybody. Equally, I have to mention to Dad, that the hearing sister is able to join us on the iDID sessions if she wants an excuse to climb twice a week.

I did alright with my cohorts; three out of the four kids I took for BIC Fest now climb regularly with iDID and two siblings are either climbing at The Climbing Academy or Redpoint.

Time for BIC Fest 2 to get even more kids involved!

Sinclair, the face behind the BIC Festival poster

So who was the man behind the poster? 

I wrote this a few weeks ago and never did anything about it:

"When one of the organisers of BIC Fest were looking for someone to feature on their poster, I knew there was only one man for the job, Sinclair!

Several months ago, he turned up the wall with a regular member and a mutual friend who was there to try climbing herself. As everyone got ready I asked Sinclair if he was climbing himself, he politely declined saying he was just the driver for the evening; he had just come down to watch. The obvious question I had to ask was, "Why not have a go?"

I don't think he expected the question and didn't have time to formulate a suitable excuse other than a subtle nod towards his leg. This wasn't going to wash and we soon had him on the wall. A few hours of climbing later he came up to me, to ask how he could go about becoming a full member at the wall. A few weeks on and he was fully trained, registered and climbing regularly at both The Climbing Academy and Redpoint, Bristol. 

So what extra measures did it take to get him climbing? Nothing. Absolutely nothing at all, bar asking "Why not have a go?"

As I said earlier, when we thought of people for the poster there was only man for the job. It's a doubled-edged sword that comment, on the one hand there's no-one as enthusiastic and happy when he's on the wall as Sinclair as you can see from his grin in that photo, but on the otherhand there are so few people in a similar situation who've had the chance or belief that they can get involved - that's what BIC Fest is all about, showing that there really aren't the difficulties or boundaries that you might imagine in getting into climbing and having go."

Red Squirrels!

The Climbing Academy 6-8 year old sessions are called Little Squirrels, as such it seemed appropriate that I brought in my little Red Squirrel plush toy for use with the kids. He's perfect for games of 'Rescue the Squirrel', 'Find the Squirrel', 'Climb to the squirrel' ... You get the idea.

Today one of our regular squirrels bought his own cuddly Red Squirrel (Fox?) in, to keep mine company during the group - brilliant!

It's all about seasons, mate!

One of the finest pieces of advice I was ever given with regards to climbing and motivation was from my mate Tim Emmett who rightly said,

"It's all about seasons, mate!"

That it is, roll on Winter

Just something in my eye!

As legacy of the recent BIC Fest goes, this evening was a fantastic example.

One of the kids I looked after on the first day of the festival joined iDID Bristol for her first day with the club after hearing about them at BIC Fest. With no lower leg movement and Deaf I was really relieved that I had learnt some BSL for the BIC Fest days and had great fun signing the colour holds to move between and with support from dad she did great. The next day at Redpoint, tied in to a harness and assisted with hauling she looked even happier, so it was great to see them back this week.

Halfway through the session, I was sitting on the floor with her, showing how to tie her figure of eight knot and signing haphazardly to her. Then I looked up to see dad close to tears ... He soon had me 'trying to get something out' my own eyes when he said it was because he had, "... never seen someone put so much effort in to communicate and help her enjoy something before."

It's no secret I'm a soppy sod, but I'm allowed to get a bit emotional after that sort of comment right?

If I never get another thank you for joining iDID I don't care!

Toit du Cul de Chien

It’s funny how well climbing has managed to distract me from my own crazy, gloomy head in the past. As a boulderer there’s a magical place full of fun and frolics. Fontainebleau contains beautiful Sandstone boulders as far as the eye can see, tucked away in serene beautiful forest …

… the last time I was there I spent an inordinate amount of time sitting curled up in a ball, tears pouring from my eyes, in the shower of the gîte me and my friends were staying at. Unable to shift the sickeningly familiar pangs of Depression. 

There’s only so much the “You’ve got through it before, you’ll get through it again.” mantra can get you through and ultimately I had to cut the trip short and bail back home to the UK. That said, the most lasting memory from that trip wasn’t the bad bits, it was of one of my proudest moments!

Climbing with Gav Symonds and Mike Langley is always an interesting affair; both climb far harder than me (Font 8A/B climbers respectively I believe?). I always feel very outgunned, but I also feel very fired up to climb my hardest. Heading to the Cul de Chien area, there was one problem to tick off the ‘to-do’ list for Mike - Toit du Cul de Chien a classic F7A problem involving a few nifty moves through pockets on a large, high roof. Arriving there we found a University Climbing club with pads laid out across all the floor like an over-sized patchwork quilt, their numerous members trying and failing again and again. After a patient few moments Gav asked politely, “Do you mind if we have a quick go?” a courteous welcome and Gav pulled on, having climbed it before, he comfortably went straight up it (a Retro Flash if you’re that way inclined), Mike having seen how it was done, stepped up straight away whilst Gav was still climbing down the other side, effortlessly and matching Gav move for move he danced up it too and over the top to meet and mutually congratulate with Gav.

- Never did finish this blasted thing though, I had to resign myself to not having the span! -

I was left alone looking up … “Don’t worry we won’t be offended if you want to go straight up it too!” one of the University members jovially said. 

I didn’t want to embarrass myself and lingered before being goaded by Gav and Mike to get on it. Pull on I did, through the slippery, slabby portion up to the first pocket that Gav and Mike had confidently and securely latched, I tried every variation of finger locks and jams and finally settled back to the first position - the one that Gav and Mike had both used unsurprisingly. The next move, was strong and felt utterly insecure, but somehow saw me to the next pocket and prepping to reach up and over to the large hold I had seen both do before … Except I was too short! I couldn’t reach, all of a sudden I was having to make a blind jump to a hold which whilst I knew was good, could have been anywhere! Somehow I latched it, a few inconsequential moves later I was up and over the roof and walking down the slope behind to join the others. Having flashed (climbed first go) a Font 7A climb, something that whilst entirely arbitrary, really did give me a fantastic sense of achievement and doing it alongside Gav and Mike made me all the prouder.

That’s why I climb; those days, nothing makes me happier. Whether it's climbing something hard first go or when I spend ages and ages to do something at my absolutely limit of ability, it's as good as the anti-depressants ;-)

Check out Georgia Pilkington's page!

There's lots of cool reasons to keep an eye on Georgia's Facebook page and climbing progress, not least because she just asked so nicely:

More importantly, as one of the more vocal deaf climbers in the local climbing scene, she really needs to get attention; deserving podiums to both speak from and to stand proud upon, holding up large first-place trophies. Seeing firsthand her impact on young kids and their parents when she spoke at the The Climbing Academy day of BIC Fest, I really hope more people get to hear her and are equally convinced that they should get out and have a go themselves.

There are few role models for young deaf climbers and she definitely ticks all the boxes there, this all said perhaps the more important point to remember is hearing or deaf, she'll give you a good run for your money on the wall! Look forward to entertaining and challenging her whenever she's over TCA way, along with Mitch her mum and chauffeur.

"Thank you for having me and I'm so glad I inspired some people :)" 

- Georgia Pilkington regarding BIC Fest -

https://www.facebook.com/geepilkington

"Active Kids for All" Community Groups' Training

I'm off to Sainsbury's 'Active Kids for All Community Groups' training course on Wednesday, at Bath University. Watch this space for my views on the session ASAP.

Their mission statement is:

"We believe that every young person should have access to an active lifestyle regardless of ability or impairment. Active Kids For All offers training for schools and community groups to develop inclusive PE and sport for all young people."

This course specifically is focussing on the following:

"The Inclusive Community Training Programme has been designed for coaches, leaders, assistants and parents who support community groups in England. It helps them to develop the skills and confidence to include disabled people in grassroots sporting activity. This training, alongside Inclusive PE, will help to create a seamless pathway for disabled people in school and community sport."

Sounds like it should be a chance to meet some interesting people in the local area with shared interests.

Pete

A pleasant morning's paddle!

So having said I would be focussing on Climbing, yesterday's iDID Bristol day out was a lovely morning paddling along the Bristol Harbour so first up is a watery ramble!

As I am slowly beginning to realise, there are a fantastic number of groups in Bristol with mission statements to support those who may struggle to participate in activities, be it because of disability, limited finances and a wealth of other complications. The more you hear about these groups, the more heart warming it is.

Yesterday iDID Bristol's Club were supported by All Aboard! Watersports who's purpose is as follows:

"To promote for the benefit of the inhabitants of Bristol and the surrounding area the provision of recreational facilities for the participation in water sports and such other related activities, of individuals who have need of such facilities by reason of their youth, age, infirmity or disablement, financial hardship or social and economic circumstances or for the public at large in the interests of social welfare and with the object of improving the condition of life of the said inhabitants."
Accompanied by our brilliant captain, J.K. we set out in one of their Bellboats with several members and a gang of volunteers. On the water everyone got down to business and we raced towards the S.S. Great Britain and beyond under Pero's Bridge and up to the Watershed, before turning circle and heading back.

All the team were great, and despite a little less paddling from my team on the left, due to various distractions (and the appeal of using their paddle less for paddling and more for splashing me) we managed to stay in a straight line give or take back to the dock. Relieved that we'd managed to keep everyone onboard and avoid any excessive dunking we returned to base happy, to disrobe from the very fashionable over trousers, jackets and buoyancy aids.

A good morning was had and once we'd seen the members off we were able to enjoy a nice pint at The Cottage Inn to finish.

Raison d'être

I'd like to offer up a quick introduction of who I am, why I've started writing this blog and what I hope it will become.

Firstly my name is Pete, I'm a short, hyperactive climber and photographer living in Bristol. I've been here 14 years now, I came initially for my (ever so useful) Mechanical Engineering degree at UoB, then hung around ever since because quite frankly it's a fantastic city, full of a load of great people and with a range of interesting opportunities.

• I work with my friend Dick Hall selling climbing hardware at Dick's Climbing - "Dick's Climbing is Bristol's only dedicated Climbing Shop."
• I work as a Climbing Instructor and Duty Manager at the fantastic The Climbing Academy, Bristol - “The Climbing Academy undoubtedly sets new standards in dedicated bouldering facilities in the UK.”
• Very recently I have started volunteering with the fantastic iDID Bristol Club - "iDID Bristol is iDID’s newest adventure club for people with a wide range of disabilities."

As I'm sure you've realised quite quickly, my life revolves around Climbing; it keeps me employed, it keeps me entertained and it keeps me sane. 

In the grand scheme of things I've not been climbing a very long time, December 2008 with the opening of TCA (The Climbing Academy), the thing is at that time I was having a catastrophic breakdown, suffering for years from Depression that time was the worst it had ever been and on the advice of doctors I was signed off work at the bookshop I was employed by at the time. Fortuitously, TCA opened the same month and gave me a safe, active and distracting venue to play and chill out. It's no exaggeration to say I wouldn't be here if I hadn't found climbing and specifically the opportunities afforded by TCA. 

Climbing for rehabilitation/distraction from mental or physical conditions is a subject very close to my heart and in recent months all the more so. Through fantastic training from iDID Adventure and the tireless organisation of Rose and Rosa in organising Bristol's inaugural Inclusive Climbing Festival I've had chance to share my enthusiasm, grow my confidence and introduce a whole load of new people to Climbing who haven't had the chance or the confidence to in the past. 

That's what this blog will hopefully develop; recommendations of courses to undertake, experiences and techniques used in the real world and my own personal experiences and development.

I'm afraid I have a load to say and do occasionally waffle, but bear with me, tucked in between I hope there will be some genuinely useful information!